Current:Home > NewsDon't listen to Trump's lies. Haitian chef explains country's rich culinary tradition. -DollarDynamic
Don't listen to Trump's lies. Haitian chef explains country's rich culinary tradition.
View
Date:2025-04-13 11:02:36
Based on the headlines this week, it seems too many Americans don’t have any Haitian friends - and certainly don’t understand their rich food culture.
I say this because of the nonsensical, bigoted and tired trope about immigrants eating people's cats and dogs that former President Donald Trump regurgitated during Tuesday's presidential debate with Vice President Kamala Harris. This time, the trope sprang from a social media post about Haitian immigrants in Springfield, Ohio.
It's not just mean and stupid: It's the kind of far-right dog whistle that can also be dangerous.
Anyone lucky enough to have Haitian friends and food in their lives knows about the complex flavors of soup joumou, a Sunday-only squash and beef soup, or the famed citrus-marinated pork shoulder, griot. They know about the spicy deliciousness of the condiment of condiments: pikliz. And they surely know the queen of all rums: Haiti's famed Rhum Barbancourt.
"Po diab pou yo." Too bad for them.
Not one to miss an opportunity to talk about food, I reached out to Miami-based, award-winning chef Alain Lemaire, who has appeared on the "Luda Can't Cook" series on Discovery+ with rapper, actor and restauranteur Chris "Ludacris" Bridges. We talked Haitian food, Haitian families, and what cooking and eating together means to Haitian people.
Chef Lemaire even blessed this column with a recipe at the end.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity. The opinions above are those of Carli Pierson and do not reflect the opinions of Chef Alain Lemaire.
What made you get into cooking and why Haitian food?
It was a necessity to cook for myself: What I wanted to eat and when I wanted to eat. I was born and raised in Haiti. Growing up in the Caribbean in the '80s and '90s, there was a strict policy of "Whatever there is to eat at the house, you have to eat it."
I paid attention to how they cooked the dishes I loved. So, when my mom was at work, I would go back in the kitchen and recreate them for myself.
What were your favorite dishes as a kid?
This is going to sound ridiculous but we eat spaghetti for breakfast. So, there were two meals I loved cooking. One was spaghetti and the the other was bulgur wheat with beef and sauce: It's called "ble." I mastered these growing up.
Immigrants aren't eating pets:Tell Trump I have 'proof' Vance ate my cat
Where in Haiti did you grow up?
Port-au-Prince, in Delmas.
When did you decide to make a career of cooking?
After graduating high school in 2000, I came to Miami.
While I was back home in Haiti, I was trying to decide what I wanted to pursue. In Miami, I had a friend who was going to a culinary program at Johnson & Wales, and when I came I fell in love with the program right then and there.
What kinds of reactions do you see from people trying Haitian food for the first time?
The shocked expressions when they taste our dishes. It's not a unilateral landscape of flavors: It's layers of flavors. Especially if the food is well seasoned. Also, our Haitian cuisine is a mix of African, French, Spanish and even some Middle Eastern flavors. When you talk about the slave trade, the spice trade, migration from Arab countries: Everyone brought their spices and flavors with them.
This is what Haitian cuisine is all about.
What is your favorite dish to cook now if you had to pick one?
That's difficult. It would have to be lalo: It's more dominant in the central part of Haiti. It's a dish made with jute leaves and some people add crabs and beef, also. Traditionally, it's served with white rice and "sos pwa" (pepper sauce).
Trump lies about immigrants hide truth:They pay their share of taxes
What would you like people to know about Haitian food and Haitian people?
Haitian food is very rich, flavorful; it's bold, fresh and in your face. It is the heart of what we represent because food for us is not only about nutrition, but it brings everybody together. Every celebration involves food. It's about unity and strength.
Our food also comes out of struggle, the fight we have to endure and out of making the best of what we have available.
Chef Lemaire's creole chicken with cashews recipe
- Yield: 4 servings
- Prep time: 4 hours
- Cooking time: 45 minutes
- Total time: 4 hours and 45 minutes
Ingredients:
- 4 chicken leg quarters, cut in two
- 6 ounces tomato paste
- 1-quart chicken stock or broth
- 6 ounces epis: Blended thyme, garlic, parsley, scotch bonnet peppers, salt, sometimes oil or citrus, onions and sweet peppers
- 1/2 cup cashew halves, toasted
- 2 tablespoons finely ground cashews
- 1 bouquet garni (wrapped up in a cheesecloth): 3 thyme sprigs, a bunch of parsley stems, 2 heads of scallions, 1 habanero pepper, 5 whole peppercorns, 2 whole cloves and 3 heads of garlic
- 1/2 green bell pepper, julienne
- 1/2 yellow onion, julienne
- canola oil for cooking
- salt and pepper to taste
Method of preparation:
- Season chicken with epis, salt and pepper. Place in a container and let marinate overnight or for 3 to 4 hours.
- Heat a dense pot, add some oil and sear chicken in small batches until golden brown on each side. Remove and set aside.
- In same pan, add tomato paste and cook on low heat until well dissolved. About 2 minutes.
- Pour in chicken stock/broth then mix in cashew powder until well dissolved.
- Add chicken pieces, and bouquet garni. Make sure chicken is at least three-quarters submerged. Adjust seasoning, bring to a boil then let simmer.
- Once chicken has reached an internal temperature of 165°F, and sauce is silky, add cashew halves, onions and peppers.
- Let cook for an additional 7 minutes.
- Serving suggestions: Serve with white rice and avocados.
Carli Pierson is a Voices/Opinion editor at USA TODAY.
veryGood! (829)
Related
- Taylor Swift makes surprise visit to Kansas City children’s hospital
- Kansas women killed amid custody battle found buried in cow pasture freezer: Court docs
- Who won 'Jeopardy! Masters'? After finale, tournament champ (spoiler) spills all
- Lauryn Hill takes top spot in Apple Music's 100 Best Albums, beating 'Thriller,' 'Abbey Road'
- Nearly 400 USAID contract employees laid off in wake of Trump's 'stop work' order
- Diversity jobs at North Carolina public universities may be at risk with upcoming board vote
- 'We're not going out of business': As Red Lobster locations close, chain begins outreach
- Why Glen Powell Is Leaving Hollywood Behind to Move Back to Texas
- Finally, good retirement news! Southwest pilots' plan is a bright spot, experts say
- Private investment firms partner to potentially cash in following sweeping changes in college sports
Ranking
- 'We're reborn!' Gazans express joy at returning home to north
- Are you moving? What to know to protect your belongings and have a smooth experience
- Trump allies face skepticism as they try appealing to disaffected Arab Americans in Michigan
- Person fatally shot by Washington state trooper during altercation on I-5 identified as Idaho man
- Trump issues order to ban transgender troops from serving openly in the military
- From ‘Anora’ to ‘The Substance,’ tales of beauty and its price galvanize Cannes
- Colorado the first state to move forward with attempt to regulate AI’s hidden role in American life
- Olympian Mary Lou Retton Responds to Backlash Over Her Daughters Crowdsourcing Her Medical Funds
Recommendation
Newly elected West Virginia lawmaker arrested and accused of making terroristic threats
Patrick Mahomes Breaks Silence on Chiefs Teammate Harrison Butker's Commencement Speech
NYC vowed to reform its protest policing. A crackdown on a pro-Palestinian march is raising doubts
Sherpa Kami Rita reaches summit of Mount Everest for record 30th time and second this month
NHL in ASL returns, delivering American Sign Language analysis for Deaf community at Winter Classic
NYC is beginning to evict some people in migrant shelters under stricter rules
Doncic leads strong close by Mavericks for 108-105 win over Wolves in Game 1 of West finals
Family of American caught in Congo failed coup says their son went to Africa on vacation